Footprints help extend the living of your tent by protecting its trading floor . But , they ’re inexplicably expensive . you’re able to slash that price by half or more if your make your own from Tyvek . Here ’s how .

We have aBig Agnes Fly Creek UL2tent ( $ 390 ) that we use for pretty much every pack trip . It ’s a great tent that ’s stood up to much more abuse than you ’d expect from its ultralight mental synthesis , but I still fear for its long - terminal figure durability . I ’d like the added reassurance afootprint($60 ) offer , but they ’re just so expensive for what ’s just a simple piece of material .

​How To find out The Perfect Tent

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In accession to protect the tent storey from being puncture and torn , footprints also prevent water seeping in through the level and , in the case of the Fly Creek and interchangeable designs , can be used with the fly to monger the tent while keeping rain off in bad weather .

As it reverse out , Tyvek is an ideal fabric for making footmark because it is lightweight , long-wearing , rainproof and inexpensive .

The pros of using this guide are that it triple reinforces the corners , uses grommets to put the tent poles through and tapes the seams . you’re able to do this simpler by just cut a objet d’art of Tyvek or 6 mil plastic to shape , but this method has virtually all the same features and convenience of a factory footprint .

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Step One : Plan It Out

First , you need to know what materials you need and how much of them . I based my foot photographic print on our collapsible shelter , which is 86×52 - 42″ ( it tapers off ) . I then add together three inches to each corner to reinforce them where the loop will be . I aim I needed at least 92×58″ of Tyvek , to make it happen without gluing two piece together ( which you could do if you have a wide tent ) . I decide to place grommet in each of the corner and one in the centre of the rear because my tent happens to have a perch that connect there . Then , nylon cord will be intertwine around the grommets to attach the collapsible shelter at the bet . The edges will also be folded in 1″ all the way around the perimeter to ensure the step is slenderly smaller than the tent , and to make the edge more durable .

Step Two : Gather Materials

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Materials :

1 ecstasy piece of Tyvek ( Amazon , $ varies )

1 x grommet kit ( Amazon , $ 10 )

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Nylon corduroy ( had some lay around )

Dap Contact Cement ( Amazon$5 )

Tools :

Ideapad3i

Hammer

Scissors

Rolling Pin

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maltreat Three : criterion And Draw

Once you have your architectural plan and materials , it ’s time to set out appraise where you are going to cut . Lay the Tyvek sheet out where you have enough area to work around it and outline the outline of the footprint .

It helps to have another hardening of hands while doing this , someone to oblige the ruler or tape measurer and someone to draw the lines and keep the dot straight .

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Once you have sketched your schema onto the Tyvek , it should look something like this .

Note the 3″ of extra cloth around the street corner for reinforcement .

This is how I evaluate and then fold the edges over to make the reenforced expanse . The line with dash through them were for valuate and were not used to cut off around . The cut out corner can then be seen in the next word picture .

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Step Four : Cut Out The Footprint

This is jolly self explanatory . curve around the outline you created and , take up you assess correctly , the footprint should be just the right size of it for your collapsible shelter .

ill-treat Five : Tape The Seams

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In fiat to make the edges of the step impregnable , I close up them over and “ tap ” them using the Dap Contact Cement . I used a 1 oz nursing bottle for all of the edges , however I plausibly could have used more like 2 - 3 oz . Just fold the edges over and apply the cement . I found it easiest to pre - fold the edges and then apply the cementum going around the collapsible shelter ( without really compact the fold edge down ) . Then , you have glue around the margin , quick to pen up and push the edges into place . Go around the border in the same order you apply the glue , allowing clock time for it to cure . Press down the edge then roll it with a trilled rowlock to ensure a good stamp . Glue all of the edges and corners in this manner and you will have a very impregnable footprint that will protest tears extremely well .

Step Six : Apply The cringle

Now , with the glue dry , apply the grommets . The grummet kit I bought had all the equipment needed to bring down the hole , then affix the alloy fastener .

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Step Seven : Apply Nylon Cord

This is relatively straightforward . Simply link up loops of cord through each eyelet in order the untroubled the groundwork mark to the stakes when toss the collapsible shelter . Do a test frame-up with the tent on top of the footprint to square off the appropriate length .

All Done !

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Here ’s how mine turn out .

It may seem a little large than the tent in the pictures ( which would allow rainwater to gather underneath , which is bad ) , but when the collapsible shelter is staked out , it stretches out about one in all - circular . Make certain to account for this in your measurement !

Overall , I ’m very happy with the ruined Cartesian product . It fits like a glove and seems durable enough to last a very foresightful time . I also have a sizable chunk of Tyvek leave over and many idle grommets , so my next footprint will be nigh costless .

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We design to take this footmark with us wherever we take the collapsible shelter to help protect it and prolong its life history .

I question if it would meet into the same stuff firing the tent usually exit into and , sure enough , it rolls right up with the tent , adding virtually no sizing .

The footprint stop up come in just at 3 oz , keeping the total weight of the tent under 3 lbs !

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This article originally appeared on Tyler ’s web log , KandT Adventurizingand has been reprint here with license .

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